After weighing the cost of repairing it, this block was discarded. Every engine and part has a different story to tell. No joy: The engine lost power. If you Are planning to simply replace parts or perform other limited reconditioning work to save money or if the heads are in very good condition , you should keep everything together. However, it is essential to use some method of protecting the crank journal as the rod bolts slide by.
Lock the crankshaft by inserting a pry bar or large screwdriver through one of the flexplate holes or in between the ring gear and starter housing see Step 4. Note: If the pump driveshaft falls out, just set it aside for now. The oil pump mounting surface on the rear main cap should be smooth and the oil pump should fit tight in the two dowel pins. The crank key should be a tight fit in the keyway. It is recommended that you replace these lock nuts, but try to keep the old ones for your visual inspection. If your engine has a short water pump check, make sure the alternator boss in the front is in good shape.
Step-42: Protect the Journal Important! In about 1986, Chevy changed the retaining arrangement of their valve covers. Critical Inspection Regardless of the method you select to remove the rods and pistons in the upcoming steps, it is absolutely essential that you keep the big end of the rod centered as it moves down the bore. Add to this amazing equation the fact that this price includes all the parts, the engine block, the aluminum cylinder heads and, well everything. Engine efficiency tends to drop when it uses busted gaskets and seals. Step-48: Remove One-Piece Rear Main Seal If your small-block was manufactured after 1986 and uses a one-piece rear main seal, perform this step; otherwise skip to Step 49.
Now bend back any locking tabs on the exhaust manifold bolts, and remove the bolts and manifolds. Refurbishing All engines cost money to build, and a more controlled budget can lead to some interesting results, even producing some powerful results using aftermarket parts. Visually inspect the rocker arm for abnormal wear in the fulcrum socket; the rocker tip should be smooth, not grooved like the tip of this rocker. All you need are the right tools, patience, and a willingness to learn and think ahead. Mark the rods on the flat surface near the rod bolt.
Special thanks to Thirlby Automotive in Traverse City, Mich. Most manifolds will come loose after prying with a screwdriver inserted between the manifold and the end-rails of the block. Keep them together in your parts bins or bags. Deep tears in the top layer and dark coloring is usually caused by lack of oil pressure. The tube should quickly loosen up enough to be removed by hand. Replace the mild cam with an aftermarket hydraulic roller and some stiffer springs the roller lifters are reusable , along with the usual external performance pieces and you should make more power than the buildup covered here. One reason is because you can rebuild it back to new.
Oil each component liberally and remember to torque each bolt securely. These are used for numbering rods. If you are going to use your original pushrods, you need to keep them in order and put them back with the correct cylinder. You will need to perform an oil pump test to check whether you need a new oil pump or not; you do this by filling the oil pan with synthetic lubricant and spin the driveshaft using a standard electric drill. Must call for Return Authorization Refund will be given as: Money back less 20% Restocking fee Merchandise must be returned in resalable condition, Unused, Never Installed, and in clean original packaging.
If you have a dial bore gauge, you can re-install the main caps and check for outof- round main bores from excess stress caused by detonation. A special Comp beehive spring and retainer were used to support the high-lift cam without any need for head machining. Step-8: Mount Engine on Stand You cannot build a quality engine if you have to roll it around on your garage floor! To get the most out of this book, take your time, read each of the upcoming steps thoroughly, and think through the procedure before you begin. Clean the intake in a hot tank or pressure wash only; do not sand blast because the media can get trapped and damage the engine later. While there are kits out there intended for high-performance upgrade use, not all drivers avail of these kits for modification or enhancement. Your flex-plate or flywheel should be inspected for missing or chipped teeth; replace it if you find any. Step 12: Check Flex-plate for Damage The flex-plate should be free of cracks.
Note: If the crank slot is enlarged or the key is loose, the crank may be unusable more on this in Chapter 3. I am on a tight budget and my thoughts at this moment goes like this: Ring and bearing kit. The 350-cubic inch Chevrolet engine is one of the most popular and numerous engines ever produced. Line wrenches box end with a slot that allows it to pass over tubing are required to remove the air-injector lines on exhaust manifolds and the fuel lines from the carb and pump. Build-up of carbon on the backside of the valve is a sign of oil getting into the intake port by way of a worn valve guide or a leaky gasket under the intake manifold. Overall average torque and power output for the two different intakes varied less than two numbers.
The Bottom Line A kit should be availed for engine repair because in most cases, old gaskets and seals can't be reused. Unbolt all remaining mounting brackets located on the front of the engine. Loosen and remove the six bolts that retain the flywheel or flexplate. Regardless of whether your engine has all the accessories attached or is partially stripped, your first step should be to use the Work-A-Long Sheet. If you have a hydraulic non-roller lifter cam, set each lifter on a flat wooden surface, push a pushrod into the cup, and make sure each of the lifters compress under an equal amount of pressure. This puller is used in a variety of applications so adding one to your toolbox is a good idea.