But Toyotas present different codes that you might not expect for this common problem. And yeah Im pretty sure the p0125 code was the temp sensor because I replaced that and havent had that code come up again sence and all the others are ignition circuit malfunction codes but was hopeing someone on here has had the same thing happein with them all popping up at once so I could maybe narrow it down. Kinda early for that but it may have been driven hard. I am betting that it is something in the 20 year old wiring. They want you to check the heated oxygen sensor to make sure the heated oxygen sensor is not bad and working properly and not stuck in a lean condition and causing the code. A proper diagnosis is certainly required. Are those good things to check? On a 4 cylinder, this would be the one on the exhaust manifold.
I think I remember that from somewhere that Toyota mis reads that code. . A block heater may also be helpful in certain situations. Also, if that code indicates that the engine isn't warming up in time, that could be a caused by a bad coolant temperature sensor, but also things such as intermittent missing, and very, very cold ambient temperatures. Auto Zone listed the cure for the code 125 as faulty temp. Start checking all wiring and connections first related to ignition before you go replacing parts.
The sensor modifies a voltage signal from the Engine Control Module. I'm guessing you have coil on plug. Are any wires loose and working their way out of the connector? Would the valves have to be replaced to fix it? The electrical resistance of the thermistor decreases as temperature increases. What brand, type, old school petroleum or synthetic oil , and and viscosity of oil are you using in the engine? This allows vacuum to b. I changed the thermostat and cleared the code - only to have it reset in a couple minutes after starting.
I forget exactly but it's something low like 9-12 ohms at 68F. Temp sensor readings for you Cool 2. This creates an electronic copy of the data taken when the fault occurred. The code is triggered when the sensor is taking too long to warm up. While you are at it hook an ohm meter to the brown wire of the O2 sensor connector and see if there is continuity all the way to the harness you just unbolted. If the coolant is low, then you likely have a leak; a coolant pressure test needs to be performed if the coolant is low.
I have changed the temperature sensor, thermostat, checked coolant level, repaired the exhaust lead that was the doughnut flange, and then replaced the front o2 sensor. I'm not trying to be confrontational - just trying to figure the darned thing out! I changed the Temperature sending unit located next to the thermostat housing, and again cleared the code. We could be looking in the wrong area and it would not be the first time. After that car will not start but 20 minutes it start but again stop, if you just start the care and don? Hello New to the forum and 1st time corolla owner. I found this with Google.
No, but you do have to remove the heads to replace the valve stem seals because the valve springs and valve itself need to be removed to get to them usually are made of brass or nylon and lock onto the valve itself. The oil is leaking from the valve stem seals into the engine explains the fouling plugs. Check the connections from the coil to the plug and make sure they aren't damaged or worn. It's kinda your call on if you want to do all of the work to replace them or not. This can come down to a matter of just a couple degrees so unless you see the exact digital temp that the computer is seeing, your not going to solve this problem.
Everytime it rained the connection would short out and make the car think it was overheating and throw a code after running rough for a second. Dont run this test too long, just long enough to check. The car was hard starting, and died several times before it actually ran. In the meantime, take it easy on the car, especially if it is going through oil. . If you see two cylinders next to each other with low compression on the dry and wet test while the other two are fine, then that is where the head gasket is blown.
What is repair and tune up history? I had one that continuously failed emission but never set any codes and it turned out to be the calibration of the thermostat. I just did a compression test and starting from the drivers side this is what I got. This can happen for multiple reasons and a mechanic needs to diagnose the specific cause for this code to be triggered in your situation. This will affect fuel milage. Here is an Actron unit from AdvanceAutoParts. She didn't hit very hard- mostly scs along the quarter panel. I have had to deal with this code before.
If this code is setting within 10 minutes during this time of the year, it would have to be a electrical problem. Anyway, after this incident, the C. Dry test-185-182-182-182 Wet test-180-184-190-210 All within 10lbs prolly as I was not quick to get to the guage. Oh yeah ill look at the link you attached again and ill have to look into replaceing the seals to see how much work that would be before I fully decide to do that job or not. If the information is within specification, then we need to move towards the wiring or computer. Apparently a bug in Toyota's software.